Monday, August 30, 2010

The Situation

     This past week has been filled with various trainings, orientations, and meetings; all with World Vision in Zambézia Province and much of it was done on site in villages hours from the main roads.  I actually have not even made it to my site yet, but have been switching between hotels, expat houses, and peace corps volunteer huts.  For three days I attended a training with 25 Mozambican farmers on conservation agriculture techniques and the other days I visited projects with the World Vision Agriculture Specialist up in the mountains of northwest Zambézia, a place called Gurué.  The trainings, discussions, and demonstrations with local farmers provided me with a strong baseline with regards to the current agriculture practices in use here and a deeper understanding of why it is so hard for these communities to get ahead.
     For the most part farmers plant with the rains (many have no close source of water), however before the rains come they till their farms by hand; using a hoe they mound the soil in long rows about 18in high and 12in wide; this gives the appearance of a midwestern corn field.  Though this leaves the soil soft and makes root growth easy, they add nothing to the soil (organic or otherwise) nor cover the soil but rather leave it exposed to the wind and air before the rains come.  So basically any moisture in the soil evaporates before the rains come, and then when it does rain it takes even longer for water to reach the deep soil, and the force of the drops on the loose mounds causes a lot of runoff.  Overtime the main nutrients are leached from the soil, leaving the red dirt high in iron which will turn a farm acidic, not good at all.  Even if this problem is realized a farmer can afford to do little to amend the soil.  Inputs (such as a fertilizer - organic or not) are up to 6 times more expensive here, because they are imported and then transported.
    But lets just say that a farmer uses techniques that prevent this from happening...transport still poses a major problem.  Farmers that succeed, but live way out in the country have no market to sell their surplus at because many of these roads have no traffic aside from bicycles and the odd motorcycle.  Furthermore, storage silos, of any sort, are almost non-existent.  So a crop of corn (the hard starchy type used for cornmeal) or dried beans can quickly spoil or become a meal for weevils if it is not moved.  This leaves farmers in situation where they feel enormous pressure to sell their harvest for any price as soon as possible, and sell it all (rather than waiting for better prices once demand goes up or even safe-guarding some to eat).  So a farmer that has grown a big crop now has little food at home, but rather some money, that doesn't do much good between the months of November and March.  This period is often called the 'hungry season'.  The heat of the summer limits what can be grown; most nutritious vegetable plants will burn in the heat and food preservation techniques (i.e. canning or drying) are not used, and the corn, beans, and tomatoes planted in October have yet to mature.  So though money is always helpful, it is of less use when nobody has food to sell.  A family that struggles through the summer months is obviously less healthy and more susceptible to illness.  Once the weather cools and the fall veggie season begins if a family is not healthy their ability to plant declines and the cycle continues.  Also, factor in the effects of water-borne diseases and malaria.  This is a formula for long-term poverty.

        So now that I have sufficiently depressed you...., there are a number of organizations working to remedy this, to increase food availability, access, and utilization.  There is no quick long-term solution, so organizations are starting with new techniques, appropriate transport technologies (i.e. carts pulled by cows), organizing farmers into to associations with selling power, and associations into larger networks with large storage warehouses.  There is an Zimbabwean group that has been advocating for what is called conservation agriculture for years.  Tomorrow I will begin a 2 day training workshop in Mutare, Zimbabwe to help bring their work here.  What they teach is not anything new to agriculture or new to me, but old habits being hard to break these it will take time for these techniques to spread and hold in Mozambique.  Just like with many sustainable farming techniques the greatest yields are seen only after years of use.  This is a difficult investment for a poor farmer to make.
       Foremost, conservation agriculture promotes no-till (or minimum-till) farming.  This means farmers are instructed not to make those gloriously long and impressive mounds of soil.  Rather they should stake out their field, establish permanent planting rows and then plant in almost the exact same holes each year.  Before planting compost/aged manure (and possibly a pelletized fertilizer) should be worked into each hole (compost making is part of the workshop).  This concentrates the fertility in the weak soil and also forces the farmer to adhere to a regular organization of their farmer (thus making the space more efficient).  Before planting farmers are instructed to cover the entire field with a thick layer of mulch (cut grass from the plains, old crop residues, etc).  This layer protects the soil from evaporation and the force of rain, slowly decomposes over time adding organic matter to the soil, and smothers weeds.  A well planned field also allows farmers to make a map and adhere to a crop rotation.  What will be new for me are the particularities that are unique to this climate, whether that be row spacing, compost making, or time of plantings.  I will be attending this training with a couple other Mozambicans, but we are not the first to go.  World Vision has been teaching these techniques for the past few years.  One of the trainings I attended this past week was instructing local farmers on these techniques.  Going to the workshop in Zimbabwe will enable me to train the trainers.  That will be one of my roles here.

 In Alto Molócué I'll be working with various farmer associations (sort of like cooperatives) to set up demonstration plots using the conservation agriculture techniques.  I will do the same with a group of youth ages 5-17 with the intention of teaching new techniques before old habits harden.  Furthermore, I will work with the farmer associations and larger farmer federation with the hope of increasing the amount of harvest that comes from the countryside into larger towns where it can be stored and sold for a better price.  Up until now the use of animals on farms in this region is almost non-existent (and tractors even less available).  Another World Vision project is training farmers to use draft animals (cows and oxen) in the field but also as a way to move goods.  My work may very well change as I get settled, but this is the main scaffold.

 I have a ton of photos, of farmers and the mountains of Mozambique, but those will have to wait as my cord is in another town right now.   For now, enjoy my self-portait.


Saturday, August 21, 2010

Could Pakistan Learn From Mozambique's Floods....

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-11044629

Thanks Dan for this link. The 2000 Floods in Mozambique we exactly in the area where I lived from 2002-2004. Actually the little girl, Rosita, who was born in a tree lived down the road from me.

Friday, August 20, 2010

I arrived in Quelimane, the capital of Zambézia Province yesterday. Quelimane sits on a river just inland from the Indian Ocean. The city was founded and named around 1500 by Vasco de Gama, the Portuguese explorer. Since then it has been a hub for the Companhia de Zambézia (Portugal’s trading/plantation company during colonialism) and it is currently the hub of a giant coconut farm (madal) and tiger prawn (really big shrimp) export.
An employee from World Vision picked us (myself and Mica another volunteer who is part this project) up and brought us to a hotel. After quickly dropping off our luggage we went to the World Vision office and met with Brian, the provincial manager and our boss. Brian is an American who, with his wife and four kids, has been living abroad for the past 30 years or so. About 5 minutes into our conversation I learned that I will not be going to Morrumbala, but rather to a town called Alto-Molócué (“moló-cuáy). Apparently Alto-Molócué has a weaker ongoing agriculture project, and my knowledge of agriculture will be more effective there. I know very little about Alto-Molócué; it sits at about 1,500 feet above sea level; its 6 hrs from Quelimane, but closer to the city of Nampula. 5 years ago Carolyn I traveled a bit in this area and went to a near by town called Gurúe that is higher up and surrounded by tea plantations.
In Alto-Molócué it looks like I’ll be helping farmers implement conservation farming techniques on their own farms, in the form of demonstration plots. We’ll then do frequent field days to teacher other farmers about the techniques and show the difference in yields. I’ll also aid a local cooperative that has been established by World Vision. The level I will work with actually represents hundreds of farmers and is aimed at providing a market for their products. Additionally I’ll be developing a junior farmers program, which will be tied in with the demonstration plots. It is a lot of work, of course that is fine by me. Some of the work will also take me out into the bush on my bike with a tent in the mountains. Doesn’t that sound like fun!?
I have meetings and trainings in Quelimane until at least the end of next week and then up to Alto-Molócué.

Thursday, August 19, 2010

My return to Mozambique has come over 5 years after finishing Peace Corps. I’ve grown old-er, gone back to school (twice), moved (twice), and married (once). My age, education, and all that in between will certainly change my perspective during this next year. I’d like to say now that it will be easier that the answers will be more evident and my project more successful, but I suspect that this new perspective will just make my comprehension of all that needs to be done deeper and the work more important. I am surprised at how comfortable I am walking around the capital that has always put me left my dizzy with paranoia. The city seems brighter from recent growth, but I also find comfort in knowing what to expect.
I was drawn back to the scene of the transmission. I could not help it. I ate dinner this evening at a certain Maputo restaurant with pizzas, hamburgers, and real bathrooms that almost 8 years ago left me itching. I do mean itching. It seems that those very nice bathrooms beheld a bounty of little buggers that were just looking for a ride. However, now I am older, educated, and married. Now I know better than to sit. My comprehension of the risks involved in sitting rather than squatting are indeed deeper. I have indeed grown wise.

Today I take a 3-hour flight north to Quelimane, the provincial capital of Zambézia Province. From there I have at least a 3-hour ride to the town of Morrumbala where I will live and work for the upcoming year. What exactly I’ll be doing and where exactly I’ll be living I may find out tomorrow.

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

I like to spend some time in Mozambique The sunny sky is aqua blue And all the couples dancing cheek to cheek It’s very nice to stay a week or two There’s lot of pretty girls in Mozambique And plenty time for good romance And everybody likes to stop and speak To give the special one you seek a chance Or maybe say hello with just a glance Lying next to her by the ocean Reaching out and touching her hand Whispering your secret emotion Magic in a magical land And when it’s time for leaving Mozambique To say goodbye to sand and sea You turn around to take a final peek And you see why it’s so unique to be Among the lovely people living free Upon the beach of sunny Mozambique


Lyrics by Bob Dylan and Jacques Levy
Copyright © 1975 by Ram's Horn Music; renewed 2003 by Ram’s Horn Music