Napiri

The weeks of training and orientation are past. My first day in “the office” put me farther out in the backcountry of Mozambique than I believe I have ever been. Alto Molócuè itself is not urban (in fact its proving to be less developed than my site in Chibuto during Peace Corps #1) and then we drove out of town towards the mountains for about an hour to a village called Napiri. Driving for an hour does not mean we were moving fast but the changes were drastic.

The huts we passed clearly belonged to families who have no means of accessing the commerce of Alto Molócuè except by foot or bike. We passed one guy literally carrying the front door of a house on the back of his bike. Every good of this manner arrives similarly. Houses were sparse standing alone or maybe with one other until a small river crossed the road where clusters existed along with small primary schools (3 room hut with a grass roof, dirt floor, and half walls to let the light in) and cattle corrals.

The scars of deforestation were almost impossible to escape and were even evident on some of the lower slopes of the approaching mountains. Fields of stumps 3 feet tall and singed by fire were common. Wood is both the main source of cooking fuel and construction. Beyond leaving about 3 feet of stump remaining, which usually sprouts new branches over time, nothing is done to replenish the wood or native habitats. Stands of forest that look somewhat old prove to be secondary if not tertiary growth. Each trunk can be followed down to its base where it thickens and splits about 3 feet above the ground. Each of these was at one point cut down for use and has since re-sprouted. At least some trees are allowed to grow back, but this is more a management tactic than preservation. The ecosystems that would mature under mature trees never even have a chance.

The dirt track curved tightly around the base of a chunk of granite, which spiked maybe 400 feet straight up though was narrow enough to easily drive around in 2 minutes. We kept going. Half of me wanted never to arrive, but just to continue over rut and rock.

Only the empty stalls of the Saturday market told us we had arrived in Napiri. We met with a farmer who is helping to organize a youth group in that area, as well as care for conservation agriculture demonstration plot. The site also has an active compost pile, which they turn regularly in preparation for the coming planting season.  The demonstration plot is definitely an experiment for the community and much depends on its success.  The youth group has yet to begin any farming work, but hopefully that will start with my visit next week.